You May Also Like

naked juice

4 ways to sneak more fruits and veggies into your day that you haven’t thought of, according to an RD

tempeh vs tofu

Plant-based protein battle: Tempeh versus tofu

high fiber smoothie recipes

8 super-filling smoothie recipes to help you live that high-fibe life

The anti-inflammatory ingredient Meghan Markle adds into her banana bread

The anti-inflammatory ingredient Meghan Markle adds to her banana bread

Is having a vegan pregnancy diet healthy? We asked a nutritionist

Is it healthy to stick to a vegan diet when you’re pregnant?

FDA food name controversy

Is alt-milk still milk? Inside the food lexicon debate the FDA has the final ruling on

The Foragers of Bushwick: Dinner at Brooklyn’s Northeast Kingdom


From the start (we're talking 2005), the husband-and-wife team behind Northeast Kingdom have farmed and foraged much of the restaurant’s produce themselves.
Summer Salad with tomato, borage, and purslane
Summer Salad with tomato, foraged borage (purple), purslane, and everything bagel crutons

 

Long before René Redzepi became famous, Paris Smeraldo and Meg Lipke were traipsing through the Hudson Valley to stock the larder of their Brooklyn restaurant.

The husband-and-wife restaurateurs opened Northeast Kingdom in Brooklyn way back in 2005, inspired by the farming communities and deer camps (hunting cabins) of their native Vermont. From the start, they’ve farmed and foraged much of the restaurant’s produce themselves. (Most restaurants hire a forager.) “My parents were kind of back-to-the-land hippies,” says Smeraldo, “so I learned about fiddleheads and wood sorrel as child.”

Chef Kevin Adey
Chef Kevin Adey

Just as they were ahead of the curve on the foraging trend, they were pioneers in real estate, choosing Bushwick for its vibrant artist community and “bombed-out” aesthetic. “We wanted to create an oasis in this neighborhood full of factories.” And indeed they have: Lipke designed a cozy, low-lit dining room filled with reclaimed wood and quirky antiques.

Foraging, Smeraldo explains, makes for the ultimate seasonal cuisine. “Spinach says, ‘It’s warm out,’ but it could be April or July. Ramps mean it’s April.” And living and farming in Hudson allows them to be in touch with the microseasons—and to grow more produce than any city rooftop garden (and minus that BQE-smog-tinged urban terroir.) They and their chef, Le Bernadin alum Kevin Adey, have also cultivated “meaningful” relationships with many organic farmers.

Dining Room Northeast Kingdom
The Northeast Kingdom dining room

When we visited, spring asparagus was coddled under an eggy grebiche sauce, fluke ceviche got a spicy-sweet kick from spring onions and strawberries, and fresh lemon balm was used to a refreshing effect in a cocktail. (Okay, so this isn’t exactly health food, but you can assemble a meal here without torpedoing your diet.)

This summer, they’re flaunting a daily menu (entrees: $14–$24), which Smeraldo says, “is more reflective of us and our ethos,” and will allow them to do more whole-animal butchery. Serving an entire pig over the course of a week makes people more conscious of how they’re using animals and “is more honest and respectful than just ordering some pork loin.”

If butchery’s not your bag, book a spot anyway. These under-the-radar foodies are hand-picking bouquets of microgreens, mushrooms, and edible flowers that make for a beautiful summer supper. —Ann Abel

Northeast Kingdom, 18 Wyckoff Ave. at Troutman St, Bushwick, Brooklyn, 718-386-3864, www.north-eastkingdom.com

Photos: Adam Morganstern

Loading More Posts...

You May Also Like

The anti-inflammatory ingredient Meghan Markle adds into her banana bread

The anti-inflammatory ingredient Meghan Markle adds to her banana bread

marathon training without carbs

How to marathon train without eating a ton of carbs

vegan sushi recipes

10 vegan sushi recipes that are way more exciting than a California roll

halloween avocado toast

Here’s how to give your avocado toast a Halloween makeover

tempeh vs tofu

Plant-based protein battle: Tempeh versus tofu

anti-inflammatory vegan recipe

These cinnamon-chili sweet potatoes are a vegan, anti-inflammatory dinner win